Fruit Tree Workshop
Join the Master Gardeners every 3rd
Saturday for the "Advice To Grow By"
Saturday, January 15, 2011
Planting and Pruning
Bare Root Fruit Trees
2156 Sierra Way, San Luis Obispo
Please park in the adjacent parking lot. The first half of the workshop will take place in the auditorium (maximum occupancy 68). The second half of the workshop will be a demonstration in the orchard. Please wear appropriate shoes for walking on sloping, uneven and mulched surfaces. It will be a standing demonstration. Wheel-chair accessible viewing will be from the garden path.
Planting Bare Root Fruit Trees
By George Frisch
Planting new, young fruit tree can be rewarding or disappointing. Rewards come from properly planting and caring for the trees. Disappointment ordinarily follows when you don’t. Here are a few helpful tips.
Although fruit trees may be planted any time, they are often planted during our winter months when many varieties of dormant bare root trees are available. The best trees have a trunk diameter from ½ to 5/8 inch, and usually become established faster than smaller or larger planting stock.
When possible, buy locally so you can inspect the roots. Select saplings whose roots are plump, moist, firm and radiate in an even pattern from the stem. Pack the roots loosely in moist sawdust, burlap, shredded bark or similar material for transit and until planting. Planting within 48 hours after purchase is best. Don’t let the roots dry out.
Pick a sunny spot, at least 6 hours of full sun each day. When planting young trees, use the same native soil that was excavated from the planting hole. Commercial soil amendments are generally not recommended since they may impede root adaptation to the native soil. Compost may be added but use it as a top dressing. Don’t put fertilizer in the hole since it can “burn” the tender roots.
Pay attention to where the roots meet the trunk and the color suddenly changes to a darker grey or brown, this is where the trunk begins. When you have finished planting, this “crown” junction between the root and the trunk should be about 2” to 3” higher than the soil level outside the now-filled hole to account for anticipated settling. The soil should slope away from the crown to drain away water, so preventing crown rot. The “knee” junction where the scion graft was made should face away from the wind. To prevent sunburn, paint the trunk with a half-and-half solution of white interior latex paint and water.. For the “hows” of hole digging and planting, please refer to Fruit Trees: Planting and Care of Young Trees, U.C. ANR publication 8048 or go to http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/.
May you enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Click on the underlined titles below
for more information and printable handouts:
Information on Training and Pruning Fruit Trees (printable)
Summer Pruning and Multiple Trees in One Hole (Dave Wilson's Nursery)/span>
Charles cutting back roots